At Paris Fashion Week, Hermès unveiled a Fall/Winter 2025 collection that reaffirmed its position as the gold standard of understated luxury. Under the creative direction of Nadège Vanhée, the house presented a vision steeped in heritage yet resolutely modern, evoking equestrian elegance through minimalist tailoring and exquisite craftsmanship.
A Monochrome Palette with Purpose
The show opened with a striking use of color - or lack thereof. Dominated by a deep, nuanced black, the collection explored the full spectrum of the shade, from inky velvet to glossy leather. Accents of lime green, cream, and saddle brown appeared sparingly but deliberately, breaking the monochrome with finesse. Set against a raw, sand-covered runway in a dimly lit venue, the mood was austere yet sensual—an atmosphere that mirrored the clothing’s duality of structure and softness.
Tailoring with a Rider’s Edge
Vanhée leaned into Hermès’ equestrian lineage, reinterpreting it with urban sophistication. High-waisted trousers, cropped jackets, and lean turtlenecks echoed the elegance of classic riding attire. A standout look paired a zipped, knitted black top with a leather utility skirt detailed with a tassel and saddle-style pocket—both a literal and symbolic nod to the brand’s roots in saddle-making.
Outerwear as the Focal Point
Outerwear emerged as the collection’s centerpiece. From supple goatskin pea coats to voluminous shearling jackets and silk gabardine bombers, each piece was as functional as it was fashionable. Some coats cleverly unzipped into full-size blankets, a testament to Hermès’ dedication to modular design and transformative detail.
Craftsmanship in the Details
Subtle but intricate design flourishes elevated the collection. Hand-painted marbled prints, zippered turtlenecks designed for customizable cutouts, and sculptural silhouettes emphasized the house’s ongoing commitment to innovation through craftsmanship. These elements ensured the garments felt both luxurious and lived-in, suited to the contemporary wardrobe without sacrificing timeless appeal.
The Evolution of the Horse Girl Aesthetic
While the term “horse girl” has often been used to describe a niche sensibility, Hermès redefined the aesthetic with maturity and depth. Floor-length wool coats layered over structured leather shorts, thick riding boots, and minimalist knits created a vision of modern femininity rooted in functionality and elegance. Vanhée’s interpretation was not costume, but culture - a refined perspective on a lifestyle steeped in movement and control.
A Confident, Cohesive Vision
With this collection, Hermès didn’t chase trends - it reinforced its own legacy. Vanhée’s work was less about spectacle and more about substance. The quiet strength of each garment spoke to a woman who dresses with intention, not for attention. In an era of overstatement, Hermès' restraint stood out as radical.
As fashion continues to swing between maximalism and minimalism, Hermès has chosen its lane with quiet confidence. The Fall/Winter 2025 collection is a masterclass in continuity: an homage to the past with its eyes fixed firmly on the future.
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